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      北京味道 | 家常又講究的老北京炸醬面:醬香濃郁 吃盡四季變換

      發布時間:2022-06-27 14:20:00 | 來源:中國網 | 作者: | 責任編輯:劉懌藝

      北京味道 |家常又講究的老北京炸醬面:醬香濃郁吃盡四季變換

      A Bite of Beijing|Zhajiangmian: Beijing’s Signature Noodles

      老北京炸醬面 

      Zhajiangmian

      說起中國的面食文化,那就不得不提起老北京炸醬面,作為北京極具代表性的文化符號之一,如果來了北京不品嘗一碗炸醬面,多少會留下一些遺憾。

      When talking about Chinese wheaten foods,Zhajiangmian, also known as“noodles with soybean paste”, shouldn’t be missed. It has become a cultural icon of Beijing cuisine. One would regret if he visits Beijing without tasting a bowl ofZhajiangmian.

      “小碗干炸”“七碟八碗兒”,屬于老北京炸醬面的頗多“術語”讓初次嘗試的吃客們摸不清頭緒,別看這一碗小小的面,內里的“講究”可不少。

      Special terms related to Zhajiangmian, such as“Dry-fried Small Bowl” and“Seven Trays and Eight Bowls”, often puzzles diners who taste the delicacy for the first time. Many need to learn before tasting such a bowl of noodles.

      炸醬面的歷史源頭

      Origins ofZhajiangmian

      有關北京炸醬面的起源有多種說法,相傳八國聯軍進北京后,慈禧太后逃到了西安,有一家面館的炸醬面得到了老佛爺和眾大臣的一致稱贊。后來慈禧太后把做炸醬面的人帶到了北京,到皇宮里做炸醬面。從此,老北京炸醬面漸漸的流行開來。

      There’re different stories about the origins ofZhajiangmian. One holds that after the Eight-Power Allied Forces occupied Beijing during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), Express Dowager Cixi fled to Xi’an, where she and her chancellors happened to taste deliciousZhajiangmianoffered by a local restaurant. Later, Cixi brought the cook back to Beijing to make Zhajiangmian for the royal family. From then on,Zhajiangmian gradually became popular in Beijing.

      不過據專家分析,老北京炸醬面產生的歷史時期是清朝末期,《雜談老北京》有記載,有一家開于清道光年間的老店,做的涼爛肉面受到食客的一致追捧。根據涼爛肉面的制作描述和北京當地老居民的形容,可以判斷炸醬面應是由涼爛肉面衍化而來的。

      Based on research, experts concluded thatZhajiangmian originated in Beijing in the late Qing Dynasty. According toAnecdotes of Old Beijing, a time-honored restaurant that dated back to the reign of Emperor Daoguang (1821-1850) offered noodles with minced pork and soybean paste, which was popular among diners. Based on the making process of this kind of noodles and the description by local residents,Zhajiangmian originated from it.

      炸醬面三要素

      Three Key Elements ofZhajiangmian 

      老北京炸醬面有個神奇的地方,每一家飯館都有著自己的味道,即便是普通百姓家中也有自己的“獨門秘方”。不過萬變不離其宗,老北京炸醬面最重要的三要素就是:面、醬、碼。

      It is interesting thatZhajiangmian offered by different restaurants has different taste. Even ordinary households have their own“secret recipes” to cookZhajiangmian. Nevertheless,Zhajiangmian has three key elements: noodles, sauces, and accompanying vegetables.

      面要“抻”的才地道

      Noodles need to be pulled before boiling

      抻面是先將面搟成有一定厚度的面片,再用刀將面片切條,隨后,在切成條的面片上灑上一層干面,雙手拎起將已切好的厚寬條抻細抻長,即可投入鍋中。如果是夏天吃,煮好的面通常在涼水中過一下,更加爽滑利口,即“過水面”;如果是冬天吃,可以從鍋中直接撈出,北京人稱之為“鍋挑兒”。

      The cook first rolls the dough into a thin pancake, cuts it into noodles, and then mixes with some dry flour. Before boiling them in the pot, he needs to pull the noodles to make them thinner and longer. In summer, boiled noodles are usually soaked in cool water for a while to make them smoother. But in winter, noodles are directly served after taking out of the hot water, which are called“Guotiao’er” by Beijing natives.

      梁實秋先生在《雅舍談吃》的“面條”一章中就曾提到,“用切面吃炸醬面,沒聽說過?!辈贿^抻面難度大,更簡單易行的手搟面,也就漸漸被接受了。

      In the chapter“Noodles” ofRecollections of a Gourmet, famous scholar Liang Shiqiu said,“I’ve never heard someone madeZhajiangmian with cut noodles.” However, due to the difficulty in making hand-pulled noodles, handmade cut noodles were slowly accepted.

      “炸醬”是精髓所在

      Fried sauce is the key

      老北京人炸醬要準備黃醬和甜面醬兩種醬,按比例混合后加水調和。肉則選用上好五花肉,切丁入鍋后煸之出油,這樣可以保證肥肉不膩的同時,讓醬也富含油分。

      Older-generation Beijingers use brown soybean paste and sweet soybean paste mixed with water to make fried sauce. They also fry them with minced steaky pork until the sauce becomes greasy in the pot. In this way, the sauce tastes neither too greasy nor dry.

      炸醬講究“小碗干炸”,小碗意味著現吃現做,干炸意思是烹飪無水。這樣制成的醬呈半凝固狀,表面有較多油脂,黏稠泛光,肉丁亮中透紅,香氣撲鼻。

      “Dry-fried Small Bowl” means that freshly prepared sauce is fried without water. The sauce made this way is semi-solidified, with grease on the surface glistening with luster and reddish minced pork emitting strong fragrance.

      面碼跟隨時令變化

      Accompanying vegetables change with the seasons

      老北京人吃炸醬面,要根據季節佐以各種時鮮小菜,行話叫“七碟八碗兒”,不是指碟子碗加起來十五個,而是形容炸醬面的菜碼之多、種類之豐富。

      Older-generation Beijingers eatZhajiangmian alongside seasonal vegetables, which are called“Seven Trays and Eight Bowls”. That doesn’t mean it really requires 15 containers, but implies the diverse varieties of accompanying vegetables.

      炸醬面的面碼,吃的就是一個新鮮:春天要吃豆芽菜、蘿卜纓兒和香椿芽兒;初夏配新蒜、黃瓜絲、韭菜段;秋天是胡蘿卜絲和芹菜末;冬天要吃蘿卜絲,還有焯過的大白菜切絲。搭配起來賞心悅目,送到嘴里回味無窮。

      Accompanying vegetables forZhajiangmian are seasonal: bean sprouts, radish sprouts and Chinese toon sprouts in spring, garlics, sliced cucumbers and leeks in early summer, shredded carrots and minced celeries in autumn, and shredded radish and shredded Chinese cabbage in winter. Such accompanying vegetables not only look attractive but also taste delicious. 

      一碗炸醬,是歷史與人文的碰撞

      一口面條,品嘗那份千年不變的京味兒

      老北京炸醬面

      不僅是一道菜肴

      更轉化成了一種文化符號

      承載著老北京的文化和故事

      A bowl of fried sauce heartens to history and culture of the past;A bite of noodles awakens memories of Beijing flavor unchanged for centuries.

      Beijing Zhajiangmian

      is more than just a kind of food;

      it has become a cultural iconthat carries old Beijing’s culture and stories.

      日本高清视频www色